Landing gear block

[paulg]

Please be sure not to "test" fit the landing gear wire into the unassembled gear block as it could result in breakage, follow the instruction and than you can test fit the gear.

[AirNerd]

I wraped my assembly with some fiberglass that I just CA'd on before glueing into the fuse so the wire would not break apart the glue seam.

[paulg]

Yep, if done right you will not have a problem.

[3DX Jim]

Heres a tip for the landing gear block.

Skip the floss... thats for your dentist.

Build the block using CA. Test Fit. Put the block in the fuse, glue the caps on with CA.

Once dried, insert your landing gear (by holding it squeezed a little), then fill the hole with some 5 minute epoxy.

Yes, the gear is no longer removeable, but the block is now BULLETPROOF.

[paulg]

Great tip, keep them coming.

[Qban Flyer]

Been flying mine since April 20.

Have close ot 200 flights on my Yak, and so far there have been no landing gear block problems with it. The landing gear and block remain as they were when first assembled. There are no visible signs of fatigue on the fuselage, the woodden mounting block or the landing gear itself.

From the build thread of my Yak:

"Photo number one shows the landing gear block after its two components had been epoxied together. Some sanding was necessary to make its sides flush with the fuselage, so that when glued and capped, a neat, nice and rigid joint is achieved.

Photo number two shows the landing gear block after it had been wrapped in Spyder Line's FUSION. While FUSION is a pain in the neck to work with, it has the tensile strength of monofilament line. Not that it is needed in this application, but it is what I prefer to use instead of all others. After this step was completed, the landing gear was fitted and found to go in nice and snug.

Photo number three is of the landing gear block epoxied in its pocket, while number four shows the competed landing gear step with its side caps/reinforcements in place."

Sorry, unable to post pertinent photos relating to the text above. They are over ten fold the size (7.8Kb) allowed for .jpg files on this forum, though these particular four are linked below.

One thing I failed to mention on the above post (and thread) is that after completing the assembly of the landing gear block, I coated it with thin CA inside and out for added strength and rigidity. This was done 12 hours prior to final installation on the fuselage.

http://www.geocities.com/panfilo_de_narvaez/Photos/0022-yak.jpg

http://www.geocities.com/panfilo_de_narvaez/Photos/0023-yak.jpg

http://www.geocities.com/panfilo_de_narvaez/Photos/0024-yak.jpg

http://www.geocities.com/panfilo_de_narvaez/Photos/0025-yak.jpg

[Mikey]

So you just shave the outside of the block to make the caps fit since you dont groove the block? For what ever reason this is the step of building the plane that I dislike most. I have been groving the block and put thread in it with hot stuff on the thread.

[Gary Hoorn]

I put a single wrap of gauze on mine and soak it with CA. No cutting or filing necessary. 6 minute epoxy and a couple of clamps and the gear block is done.
Gary

[bills]

I used a small strip of fiberglass drywall joint material and painted the entire outside with epoxy. It failed on a grass landing that was a little too fast.:o Repairs were made by filling the split with epoxy using a toothpick and clamping it back together with a small spring clamp. Then I removed just enough of the sides of the block where it is glued to the ply and the foam with a Dremel tool. A paper clip, shaped and soldered together, would fit in the groove flush with the bottom of the fuse and around the block, then epoxied. I have yet to fly it since the repair but will keep you posted.
Bill

[bills]

I used a small strip of fiberglass drywall joint material and painted the entire outside with epoxy. It failed on a grass landing that was a little too fast.:o Repairs were made by filling the split with epoxy using a toothpick and clamping it back together with a small spring clamp. Then I removed just enough of the sides of the block where it is glued to the ply and the foam with a Dremel tool. A paper clip, shaped and soldered together, would fit in the groove flush with the bottom of the fuse and around the block, then epoxied. I have yet to fly it since the repair but will keep you posted.
Bill

Repair is holding so far, but I'm trying not to test it to severely.

[paulg]

good to hear